Day #24 June 14 Leon to San Martin (24.8k)

Day # 24 June 14 Leon to San Martin del Camino. (25.8K)

 

We left Leon in the coolness of the early morning and like almost every other Spanish town early in the morning; streets were deserted, shops were closed and the only people up and about were Peregrinos heading to some town on their journey to Santiago. There is something odd about walking through a town or city when most of its inhabitants are still asleep; it almost feels as though we are intruding. The sight of a Peregrino walking with his or her backpack, walking poles or Camino stick clicking along the  street cobble stones or pavement is common along the Camino and yet the grim faced pilgrims with their shell prominently displayed seems so uniquely out of place particularly in Leon. Leon with its Cathedral; "Pulchra Leonina" and Paradore hotel which between them may capture the complete history of this great city and while the cathedral is a magnificent building architecturally it strikes odd that one now has to pay to enter a place of worship. I suppose when I think further this has always been the case except in Ireland the plate was passed after you were  'in'. Maybe we were paying to "get out"!

The Paradore, now a hotel once housed the military, was a monastery and even as a concentration Camp during the Spanish Civil war.

Having left the fairytale atmosphere of the Paradore behind we were quickly brought back to reality and although we are much improved blisterwise we each have a little residual discomfort but nothing we can't handle at this stage.

There is no doubt that the Paradore was one of, if not the highlight of our trip so far..

We took an alternate route today along the N-120 hoping for more even terrain and fewer hills. For once we got it right and made great time to Albergue Santa Ana where we will stay tonight. Sleeping in an allbergue is not like anything I have ever experienced before; it has a  unique set of sounds which I have tried to describe in the following limerick.

 

The sounds of farts & of snores

Will echo between all the floors

That's a hostel at night

And not the worst plight

Sometime there's a drunk's rant & roars

 

We saw for the first time today two Pilgrims on horseback!

We had a pilgrims meal tonight... How's that for getting back to reality?